The "Mountain of Death "wounded my car, but didn't kill it.
Jungle Journal 03-23-2007, by Thomas Scott Daly
In search of a new camera and/or repairs on my existing
one, a trip over the Mountain of Death became imperative.
Sierra Del Muerte was thus named for the large number of motorists killed
each year ( I think two hundred or so) traversing it's impressive heights
over a daunting two-lane road chock-full of trucks and busses, while suffering
long lines of often over-anxious motorists with few safe passing opportunities.
Combine this with sheer drop-offs and often limited visabillty and viola, you
have Sierra del Muerte.
My Geo Tracker is a good little car, but has a tendancy towards running hot
when climbing hills, especially at slow speeds. During the majority of the trip to
San Jose we were stuck behind long lines of cars and trucks and busses all
trying to get to the front of the line, and the car was nearly constantly on the
verge of the red zone, and in it, on the water temp gauge. Very
nerve-wracking, not knowing which would happen first, an engine blow up, or
a head-on collision while attempting to pass. Just staying behind the slowest
of trucks was not an option if you want to get over the mountain before the
next millenium.
We managed the first leg to San Jose without major incident, but came up
short a few liters of water in the radiator along the way, and by the time I
parked the car I vowed never to drive the trip again, at least not with that car..

Above is the famous Hotel Del Rey. Famous for it's sports
bar, casino, and of course, it's plethora of hookers
populating the rather large "social" bar
My neighbor, Mark, and I, however, stayed here at the
somewhat cheaper and lower key, Hotel Morazon.
(see Hotel Del Rey in background) I resisted the temptation to
gamble or cohort with floozies, this trip anyhow.
I bought my new camera and hit
the streets with it, and my newly
repaired old one.
The trip home was much less stressfull, and the water
temp stayed within reasonable limits. Traffic wasn't too
bad and most of the way I was in front of the pack all
alone. It was actually a beautiful and fairly pleasnt drive.
Then a noise developed in the front end. We both thought
it was a wheel bearing. When we got to San Isidro it
became very noisy, prompting a pit stop at a mechanic.
Considering there was still one more mountain to cross, it
seemed wiser to err on the side of caution. By the time the
mechanic had the brakes apart and the rusted front disc
brakes appeared unlikey to go back on effectively, it
became clear the car was not gonna to make it home with
us. We took a cab the rest of the way (50 bucks) and I
slept in the back seat, just a little relieved not having to
drive anymore.
Gotta stick in a
pic of me with
the new camera.
As with all my
web-photos,
click on image
to see larger
view.
Costa Rica Stories, Jungle Journal, Mountain of
Death, by tsdaly, Thomas Scott Daly.
Recent newspaper photos of bus
crash from San Isidro to Dominical;
one I have ridden many times. It's
just on the way to..
The Mountain of Death
Many people drive the road regularly
with little personal tragedy involved. i
guess, like most mountain road driving,
good equipment and lots of common
sense often make the difference
between a successful trip and a big
fuck up.
Then there's the Shit Happens factor.
*
* My story on the origin of the name, Mountain of Death, could be bullshit I've taken as fact from dubious
sources. After reading a bit..I found one article saying it was thus named before there was a road over the
mountain...but it does pay homage to the continuing carnage and death due to the often dangerous conditions
involved in traversing it's heights. I'm doing more research and will add links and pertinent data as fits in with
my story. If it doesn't fit in with my story, I will change it, as needed.
OK..just found this...which really throws a wrench in things..including my spelling: History: The name Cerro de
la Muerte, which translates as "Mountain of Death", predates the construction of the PanAmerican
Highway and refers to the tragic consequences suffered by many who attempted the arduous crossing
from the Central Valley to the Valley of San Isidro del General. This entailed a three or four day journey,
on foot or on horseback, and meant spending at least two nights in the cold and often rainy highlands.
Many were ill-prepared for the inclement weather and, if they did not succumb to hypothermia on the
spot, perished from complications such as pneumonia later on.
I guess I'm just glad I had a car to drive over it. I'm not so sure about taking the bus anymore either, but
sometimes, you just gotta get there if you live here.